CELEBRATING THE ART OF LIVING WELL,
AS THE FRENCH DO,
BY USING ALL FIVE SENSES
TO APPRECIATE EVERYTHING ABOUT LIFE

(FOR MY JOIE DE VIVRE PHILOSOPHY, READ MY FIRST THREE POSTS FROM JUNE 2009)






10 August 2009

Slow Food Picnic on the Farm follow-up


Several of you have written asking how the Slow Food Farm Day at my sister-in-law's organic farm went, since I had written about it in two previous posts (click here and here). I actually created a blog post for them recapping the day, on their new official blogspot, so check it out.

I have to admit that my pie did not win the prize; it was classified a "tarte" because it was in a square French pan and made with puff pastry (goodness, who knew?) but I still had fun making it, and the winning pie, a blueberry & strawberry mix with lattice top, was absolutely delicious.
The pie contest - mine is the square one with cherries

BING CHERRY FRANGIPANE TARTE

Make puff pastry. [Astuce (tip): the frozen version of puff pastry available in all supermarkets is really quite good, and a lot quicker than making it from scratch.]

Brush tarte pan with melted butter, and line pan, pressing the pastry up the sides. Prick dough all over with fork, but do not weigh down with pie weights. Pre-bake only until very light brown; then let cool. Then press down the puffed up crust. It will crumble, but be very flaky and light.

Pit 3 cups bing cherries.

Poach cherries until tender in the following mixture: 1 bottle red wine (I used a light Chianti), 2 cinnamon sticks, 2 handfuls of raw sugar. When cherries are quite tender, but still holding their shape, drain the extra liquid out of them, reserving the poaching liquid for later.

While the cherries are poaching, make the frangipane filling:

In a food processor, grind 1 + 1/4 cup blanched almonds, until they are a fine, slightly grainy powder. Set aside.

Using an electric mixer, cream together 1/2 cup unsalted butter and a scant 1/2 cup granulated sugar. Beat for several minutes until quite light in color. Add 1 egg, the ground almonds, 2 + 1/2 tbsp. dark rum, 2 tsp. almond extract, and 1 tbsp. pastry flour (or regular unbleached flour).

Pour the frangipane into the cooled crust, spread evenly, and chill for one hour.

Preheat oven to 425*. Remove tarte from refrigerator and dot all over with the poached and drained cherries, carefully pressing them into to thick frangipane filling. Bake for 45-50 minutes, until both the crust edges and the top of the frangipane are light golden brown.

Serve at room temperature. (The flavor intensifies if it sits for a few hours.)

If you wish, reduce the poaching liquid to a syrup consistency. It can be drizzled around the tarte slices, and is also wonderful over vanilla ice cream.


My old fashioned cherry pitter, which I've had for years -
It always comes out during cherry season.


Purple hands

Poached cherries


Et voila!

The assorted contest entries all looked mouthwatering.

The judges

Finally, the public was allowed to join in the tasting.

The Next Day... Leftover Pork

Ahhhh... the morning after a really good meal is always, for us, a time of reminiscence about what worked well, and/or not so well about the evening before - the food preparation, as well as the repast itself. And then, it's time to move on to further ideas - what to do with the leftovers? The pig had been 51 pounds, so there was plenty of meat to work with.

Jack was anxious to make a version of Jambon Persille, which is one of our favorite picnic staples when we're in France. The real French recipe for Jambon Persille uses uncooked and cured, salted ham, so this would be a variation on the theme. Jack began by taking all of the bones, adding the gelatin from the night before (top picture), and simmering them in water with garlic, onions, carrots, celery and fennel root, to make an aromatic stock.

Leftover chunks of pork, sitting in it's natural gelatin that has congealed overnight

Simmering stock
Chopped pork, cornichon pickles and sauteed shallots,
ready to be assembled.
The mold is rubbed with olive oil and then lined with
chopped parsley leaves.
Meat, shallots, cornichons and more parsley are added to the mold and pressed over the layer of parsley; then the strained ham stock is poured in to cover. The entire mixture is then refrigerated for about 12 hours, until firm, so that it can be sliced into individual servings.
Jack was pleased that the finished terrine was as tasty
as it was beautiful.

I made a version of pulled pork on the stovetop with shredded meat, and a barbeque sauce, which I heated gently over a couple of hours to let the sauce permeate the meat.

MY BARBEQUE SAUCE

Stir together and simmer for at least 1/2 hour: tomato paste, cider vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, brown sugar, chopped garlic, ground cinnamon, ground cayenne pepper, salt and ground black pepper. All amounts are to taste.

KC, who in addition to being Lisa's son, is the head chef at Jimmy's No. 43 Restaurant in Manhattan, was busy brining lemons with peppercorns. Some of this lemony liquid went into my barbeque sauce, cutting the sweetness a bit.

KC also made garlic confit in the oven...

... as well as roasted beets and shallots, which would become
a beet salad.

Chopped roasted shallots
KC, Lisa and me

Hungry cooks need sustenance to keep the creative juices flowing

Hooray for another great meal!

Russ's charming dining room off the kitchen, opens onto the porch

A mix of North Fork, French and Australian wines
await our eager palettes

View from the porch on our last morning

C'est moi, relaxing with a good book!

05 August 2009

Long Island Pig Roast

C'est si bon! ...or as our friend, Dan often says, "Just another day in Paradise."

Well, four days actually. We have just returned from our annual extended weekend to the North Fork of Long Island, for fun, food, wine and relaxation with several friends who have been summering in Cutchogue for generations. For Jack and me, it all started several summers ago, when Lisa and Dan invited us to visit Lisa's big old family home there, and since then Lisa's siblings, their spouses and all of their children have become dear friends of ours. Summer wouldn't be complete without at least one visit with all of them!

Dan, Lisa, me, Jack, Russ and Nikki


This weekend, we stayed with Russell and Nicola (aka Nikki, Lisa's sister), who live just down the beach from Lisa and Nik's old family home. Russ's house reminds me so much of our family summer home on Cape Cod before my parents winterized it. It is absolutely charming with dark beadboard walls, a big stone fireplace, wide floorboards, and old screened windows overlooking Peconic Bay. The house is surrounded by charming gardens and a breezy porch for whiling away summer days and evenings alike.

Lisa's mother is no longer living, and the house we originally used to visit is now shared by Nicola, and their two brothers. We have become friends with one brother Randy, and his wife Laura, and their kids over the years, and were happy to hear that they were down from Connecticut for the weekend with their son, Charlie.

Charlie, Laura and Randy

The pig roast idea had come about when Jack and Russ were talking on the phone a few days before we were to leave Hingham. Jack and I purchased a whole pig at our local Chinese market (the pig wasn't Chinese, but it's usually easiest to buy fresh food items like this at ethnic stores) and slathered it with a garlic-herb-olive oil paste.....

... basted it inside and out...

... put it on ice and transported it to Long Island in the back of our station wagon, crossing L.I. Sound from New London by ferry.

A note about the ferry ride: Ever since we've been traveling to the North Fork with Lisa and Dan, they have packed a traditional picnic for us all to share, with wine, pate, cheese, olives & bread. This trip was no exception, so we were happy campers, even though it rained most of the voyage over.

Arriving at Russ and Nik's, we stowed our pig in the barn with fresh ice that they had waiting. The next day was the day of the feast, so preparation began early in the day. On our morning walk, Jack and I had discovered lots of good dead wood along the roadside, so we later went back with our car and loaded up on fuel for the barbeque.

Later in the morning several of us went to Sang Lee Farms' roadside stand for organic veggies, including colorful watermelon beets which Lisa's son, KC, planned to roast, corn on the cob, heirloom tomatoes and berries.

We also stopped by Catapano Dairy Farm, which sells fresh goat products, for some cheese and butter.
Home from marketing

Roasting a pig is slow-going, so we started the fire at 4:00 PM, with the branches we had gathered and charcoal, as well. Russ has a wonderful grill which we have used for similar feasts in the past. The key is to make the fire next to the grill, and then keep shoveling coals under the grill, as the roasting progresses, in order to have a continuous, hot but soft, radient heat. (Russ knows how to do this, since he has Argentine polo players who ride his polo ponies, and this is a traditional Argentine method which they have done for us in the past.)
Butterflying the pig
Finally on the grill
The pig is covered here with cardboard to keep the heat around it. Sometimes, Russ uses feed bags (from the ponies), which is a traditional Argentine covering. You must keep the covering wet to prevent it from catching on fire.

Meanwhile, Laura arrived with her zucchini, summer squash & cherry tomato mix, covered in freshly micro-grated Parmigiano cheese, to be sauteed...

... KC was preparing beet greens to be lightly tossed over heat with garlic and some of the pork fat...

... and roasting beets next to the pig (which was being basted by Jack and Russ)...
... Brittany (Nik's daughter) was shucking corn...

... and Nik's youngest daughter, Jessie, had made a berry base to be topped with her crumble recipe and baked for dessert. (Unfortunately, this yummy dessert later disappeared too quickly for me to get a photo of the topping!)


As the crowd around the barbeque grew, so too did our collective appetites. Russ brought out some French, as well as local, NY cheeses and opened a lovely double magnum of 1988 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon, which he and his son Rusty decanted and we all tasted. Even though it had gone off just a bit, it was still delicious and a real treat to taste.


We also were treated to Russ's own chilled rose, Margerie's Rose, named in honor of his mother. It is made entirely from Pinot Noir grapes, using old world techniques. Russ's McCall Vineyard vines are still relatively young, but he is creating beautiful wines, already, which are unique to this region and can stand up next to French wines. The North Fork is wine country, with some vineyards producing really nice wines.

Russ's daughter Lauren, and grandson Adrien, with daddy David


Nicola with her daughters


Laura, Kate and Lisa


Nik and Russ


Jaimie and Rusty


KC, Lisa and Dan


The pig looking mouth-watering, after several hours over the fire


The crowd, including some of Rusty's visiting friends, milled around, enjoying each other's company and getting very hungry! The various aromas wafting into the air were a perfect "teaser course," setting the expectation for a truly delicious meal.

Meanwhile in the kitchen, last minute preparations were coming together:

Locally grown corn - so light in color and sweet!

Lisa always prepares divine fresh salads. Her dressing includes fresh lemon juice and lots of chopped garlic.

Jaimie's tomatoes with fresh herbs from Russ's garden
KC sauteing beet greens
Laura's veggies
A still life with my favorite wine, Penfolds Grange, from Australia



The feast

Rusty's friends, Laurel, Seth and Aviva

A relaxing moment for Charlie
It's always just the best feeling when you've all finished a great meal, and can simply soak up each others' mellow vibes. It was also especially calming, here, as the waves of Peconic Bay gently lapped the shore, just feet from the veranda. Between their sound and the smell of salt water, this was a perfect end to the day.
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