Five Days of Gastronomy, California Style (Day 1)

 

Farallon - Our Introduction to San Francisco Cuisine

It all began with our youngest son, Drake, and his CIA (Culinary Institute of Technology) student externship in San Francisco. As part of their culinary studies, all CIA students complete a 5-6 month externship working in the industry, while constantly learning, studying and filling out copious homework assignments for the school. This accounts for one semester's worth of credits, and invaluable hands-on experience.

As a fan of Beat generation poets and authors, Drake had known for a long time that he wanted to be in San Francisco, and was lucky enough to secure a paying position at Farallon, one of the top restaurants in that city, and nominated by the James Beard Foundation as one of the best restaurants in America. He had done a lot of on-line research at school, and decided on Farallon, partly because of its reputation, but also because he loves fish and seafood. The creativity of the menu and the decor also appealed to him. With 3.5 stars, Farallon is the top rated the seafood restaurant in San Francisco. It's located in Union Square, just around the block from where we were staying.

Needless to say, Drake fell in love with San Francisco (he visited the once controversial City Lights Bookstore on his first day there) and especially loved working at Farallon restaurant, making some terrific friends there, amongst the staff. He also met and got a chance to talk with a number of other high profile chefs who dined there, including Jeremiah Tower and Jacques Pepin - so exciting!

 Drake & Jared - junior "masters" of the Farallon raw bar

Drake and Jared Eugenio, who by accidental chance were both interns at Farallon at the same time, had not previously known each other at school, but became true friends, as well as working teammates at the raw bar. Between them, they reorganized the raw bar to be even more efficiently orchestrated than it had been, and were put in charge of training new recruits before they left the restaurant last week, both to return to the CIA with tons of positive energy gained from their Farallon experience. Drake has been offered a full-time job there, when he graduates (thereby, thrilling his parents!!)

The entrance to Farallon (Drake & Jared at the raw bar in the back left) with amazing jellyfish lamps hanging from the ceiling.

The main dining room

The decor at Farallon is over the top (literally and figuratively!) With incredible sea creature lights casting a warm glow, and watery looking columns - both of which reminded me of Daum glass paste sculptures from France (which I adore) - and oceanic architecture, all evoking a feeling of being under the sea, the place immediately puts diners in the mood for fabulous seafood...

...and that is just what we got. Unfortunately, I was so excited about seeing "my boy" after 5+ months, that I mostly took pictures of him - not the food - but believe me, it was some of the freshest and best we've ever eaten.

 Above is a mixed platter of raw oysters, served at Farallon (photo source: Google images).

Below, Drake's handwritten list of the actual oysters Jack and I tasted as an opener to our meal (expertly shucked and prepared by Drake, of course). They were served with mignonette sauce (above center), but we mostly ate them plain, so we could contrast and compare the different varieties.

Jack and I ate our entire dinner at the raw bar, so that we talk with Drake and watch him in action.

Here's what our eager palates were treated to:

1 - Mixed Plate of a Dozen Raw Oysters - six different varieties -

with Lemon Wedges & Mignonette Sauce

2 - Ahi Tuna & Atlantic Diver Scallop Carpaccio with Baguette Crostini, French Breakfast Radish

& Meyer Lemon Vinaigrette

3 - Tuna Tartare with Chives, Red Onion, Lemon, Local Olive Oil & Sieved Hardboiled Egg Yolk

(a small tasting of this because Drake was making it for a customer)

4 - Picked Dungeness Crab with Avocado Mousse, Roasted Fennel and Rainbow Microgreens,

with Meyer Lemon Vinaigrette (This is usually offered as the first course of their tasting menu.)

5 - American Paddlefish Caviar (a small spoonful of this)

6 - Cedar Plank Grilled McFarland Springs Trout, with Butter Braised King Trumpet Mushrooms

and Smoked Fingerling Potatoes, with Green Curry Coconut Broth

7 - Broiled Fresh Monterey Bay Sardines with Heirloom Tomatoes, Roasted Gypsy Peppers,

Red Onion & Sherry Vinaigrette

8 - Pan Seared Maine Diver Scallops, Grilled Castelfranco Radicchio with Amaretto Gastrique,
Housemade Sweet Coppa & Marcona Almonds with Honey Roasted Pears

9 - Concord Grape Pie with Lemon-Fig Leaf Ice Cream, Candied Almonds

& Fig-Black Raspberry Vinegar Coulis

What was so cool about the whole dinner experience was that, while we only ordered a few of these items, most were presented to us as extra surprises. Sous Chef Fred Sassen, brought us something new he had invented the night before for a regular customer who always requests something unusual - a plate of scallops, radicchio, coppa (capocollo salami) & almonds and pears - which was not on the menu. It was just out of this world, with so many different contrasts going on (sweet/salty, acidic/mild, crunchy/soft, delicate/bold, wet/dry, hot/cold). It was one of the most interesting combinations either of us had ever eaten. The radicchio, with its amaretto gastrique sauce, was only slightly bitter, and was a great foil for the other items on the plate. Everything went together and complemented each other beautifully.

It was also just such a kick watching Drake individually prepare tartare, ceviche, carpaccio and shellfish platters, along with sauces and vinaigrettes, throughout the evening.

Absolutely everyone we met at Farallon was so gracious and interesting to talk to. Chef/Owner Mark Franz and Ryan Simas, the Chef de Cuisine, were not there that night, but Executive Sous Chef Fred Sassen and Sous Chef Liz Hopkins both left their busy kitchen to come out and say hello and chat with us. We also had fun talking with Dale Forest, General Manager, and Peter Palmer, Sommelier ex-officio, as well as current Sommelier Jennifer Gomez, and several others - I can't remember all the names of staff who welcomed us, but we did have some great conversations. The entire team could not have been more welcoming and ready to impart helpful anecdotes about the various foods and wines.

Fred Sassen - a true mentor for Drake

Fred and Liz are both graduates of the CCA (California Culinary Academy) and have been wonderful role models and friends for Drake. A few days after our dinner at Farallon, we stopped by their house in Berkeley for a glass of wine before all heading out to Chez Panisse for dinner. We toured their small but varied and prolific kitchen garden which included fruits, vegetables and herbs, and had an impromptu vinegar tasting, as Fred explained how they make their own vinegars. (More about that night in post four of this series.)

Since I didn't photograph our food, the following are some other pictures of Farallon dishes (source: Google images):

I have had the Farallon Cookbook for years. The restaurant opened in 1997, and the cookbook was published in 2001. It is a beautiful book, loaded with gorgeous photos and recipes. Little did I imagine, when I bought this book, that Drake would someday be working there!

Click here to see the entire current Farallon Dinner Menu or the current Farallon Dessert Menu. If you live in or visit San Francisco, I highly recommend dinner (or lunch) at this lovely restaurant - you will be happy you did!

New cheese and gourmet shop

Our very dear friends, Robert and Mary Gonsalvez, have just opened Bloomy Rind - a much anticipated and universally welcome addition to Hingham Square. There are so many things I love about this shop - including its energetic and completely charming owners!

First of all, Robert is an excellent chef, who is an alumnus of the Culinary Institute of America, where our Drake goes to school. He creates salads, sandwiches, pates and other divine comestibles in the kitchen at the back of the store/restaurant.

Mary is a cheese curator extraordinaire, and between them, they have chosen an outstanding selection of cheeses - mostly focusing on American artisanal cheeses that are every bit as interesting as the imported cheeses they also carry. Many of their cheeses are award winners, quite a few of which are relatively local, coming from Massachusetts and our surrounding states ...and you KNOW how I love local foods!

Since Mary and Robert are special friends of ours, we and some other friends and family helped out getting the shop ready to open - so many hours of painting, laughter, moving furniture around, more laughter, sampling cheeses, more laughter.... you get the idea. "It takes a village," was the catch phrase for a few months.

C'est moi painting the new sandwich board.

I also painted words that describe cheeses at the top of one wall, and savory foods on the opposite wall. 
We had such fun coming up with all the descriptions!

Every cheese has a story...

Mary and Robert holding up a first, small version of their new sign, designed by Jack.
The logo (above) was also done by Jack - especially for this incredible duo.

 A few nights before the shop was due to open to the public, Robert, with Mary, prepared a delicious thank you meal for Lisa, Dan, Jack and me.

Lisa and I attempted making potato gnocchi, with much

assistance from the chef (and even more wine).

OPENING DAY coincided with the annual Taste of Hingham.

Madeleine and I labeled cheeses. 

Drake made paper cones to hold the cheese curds.

Jack manned the fried cheese curd station, 

along with Mary's relatives.

Mary's sisters and brothers were there pitching in and generally keeping everyone smiling.

A selection of their cheese offerings

One of my favorite cheeses they offer is Winnemere (right), 

handmade at Jasper Hill Farm in Vermont.

They offer imported olive oils, capers, jams, etc., as well as many American artisan-made products.

Bloomy Rind has now been open a couple of weeks, and already has a burgeoning fan club! Today, Jack and I treated ourselves to lunch there, with our friend, Marge.

The delectable selection of goodies pictured above, which Jack called his French picnic, included Aged Beemster Gouda (from Holland), Crottin de Champcol (French goat cheese), Bridgid's Abbey (raw cow's milk cheese from Connecticut), quince paste, dried cranberries, Marcona almonds (from Spain), three veggie sides created by Robert, Volpi salame (hand made in St. Louis), sourdough bread and Castleton artisan crackers (from Vermont).

The communal table is a terrific gathering place for friends as well as for meeting new people.
After the Hingham Farmers Market opened for it's Wednesday summer hours in Hingham Square yesterday, Robert was inspired by the locally grown strawberries he bought there, and created these lemon cupcakes with fresh strawberry buttercream frosting - out of this world!

Their coffee is hand-poured one cup at a time.

Le chef in his domain.

Rebecca making my grilled BLB - 

hand crafted smoky bacon, 

lettuce and brie sandwich

on dark pumpernickel, with 

peach butter.

The deli case features Robert's salads and pates, various imported olives, cured meats and much more. The selection changes daily.

Mary is constantly handing out cheese tastings and explaining what makes each cheese so special.... since every cheese has a story!

This shop is such a needed and welcome addition to Boston's South Shore. Visit Bloomy Rind to eat in or take away your goodies. I know you'll fall in love with the shop!

From Fagioli in Stufa to the CIA

Several years ago, for a bit of tongue-in-cheek fun and to celebrate Jack's birthday, I ordered chef's jackets from Chefwear and had Jack's and mine embroidered with Chez Jacquesson (after his old French nickname.) Jack's job title was Chef Executif and mine was Patissiere. Since the kids' jackets had arrived too late for the embroiderer, I hand lettered them to match ours, with Sharpee markers. Their jackets were both emblazoned with their job title of Sous Chef. To complete the fun, the kids also got colorful, matching chef's pants and hats with a pizza motif.

As with our older son Giles, both Madeleine and Drake enjoyed cooking from an early age and were happy to don their chef's outfits and get busy in the kitchen. But it was Drake who most passionately took cooking to heart.

One day not long after said birthday, our friend, Renato, who is originally from Trieste, Italy, was describing various Triestine dishes, and Drake was particularly taken with the idea of Fagioli in Stufa (beans cooked on the stovetop.) He and Jack made a batch, according to Renato's recipe, and this photo has always been one of our favorites, commemorating that time period.

Drake, 6 yrs. old, with his fagioli in stufa

FAGIOLI IN STUFA

Soak overnight:
white cannelini beans

Drain and put in pan with:
homemade chicken stock to cover*
fresh herbs such as thyme and oregano
chopped white onion

minced garlic
salt & pepper to taste

Simmer on the stove for several hours, until beans are tender and flavors have expanded.

* My favorite stock recipes all come from French Farmhouse Cooking, by Susan Hermann Loomis.

Over the years since then, Drake has spent a lot of time in the kitchen, cooking for friends and family. He has also worked in a number of restaurants, including with chef Paul Wahlberg at Bridgeman's, in Hull, MA. (Paul has since left Bridgeman's and is opening his own restaurant in Hingham). Drake is currently cooking with Chef Iwan, at Bare Cove Gourmet, here in Hingham. He has come to the realization that cooking is his passion.

Yesterday, after waiting on pins and needles ("Hi Mom, has the mail come yet?") for weeks, Drake, who is now 19, received word that he had been accepted to the Culinary Institute of America - the famed CIA. This is Drake's dream school, so we couldn't be more excited for him - and proud of him for making it into what Paul Bocuse has called "the best culinary school in the world."

Celebrating acceptance to the CIA

It's so important to follow your passions. I'm especially thrilled that Drake has the opportunity to follow his. Congratulations, Buddy!